Six Perfect Days In Spain’s Basque Country: San Sebastián & Bilbao For Food Lovers
If you love the idea of wandering pretty streets, dipping your toes in the sea, lingering over long lunches and ending the day with a glass of something lovely in hand, then Spain’s Basque Country should absolutely be on your radar. Think: world‑class food, a compact and easy‑to‑explore area, and just the right balance of relaxed and spoiling.
This is my guide to six perfect days split between San Sebastián and Bilbao: a duo that works brilliantly for couples, especially if you enjoy a more boutique, grown‑up feel to your trips.
Why the Basque Country is a brilliant short foodie escape
The Basque Country sits in the north of Spain, hugging the Bay of Biscay. It is a region that quietly gets under your skin. Rather than big, brash resorts, you have handsome cities, dramatic coastline and a food scene that punches far above its weight.
A few reasons I love it for a six‑night break:
Easy twin‑centre: San Sebastián and Bilbao are only a couple of hours apart by train, so you can experience two very different moods in one trip without wasting days on travel.
Serious food credentials: This is Michelin country, but also the home of pintxos: little works of art on a plate or piece of bread, eaten at the bar with a glass of local wine.
Walkable and compact: Both cities are ideal for exploring on foot, which makes them feel more immersive and less stressful.
Great for “comfort travellers”: If you like beautiful hotels, leisurely breakfasts and a proper shower at the end of the day, you are in the right place.
For this itinerary, I am imagining a couple (perhaps in their 50s or 60s) who enjoy boutique hotels, good service and thoughtful touches. Adjust the pace, add extra nights or swap experiences around to make it your own, but this will give you a really solid framework.
Days 1–3: San Sebastián – sea air, pintxos and a dash of Michelin
San Sebastián (or Donostia, in Basque) has that rare combination of city, beach and foodie playground all rolled into one. You can spend the morning on the sand, the afternoon at a museum, then the evening hopping from bar to bar trying different pintxos.
Where to stay
For this itinerary, I like to keep things small and characterful. Two lovely options to consider:
A harbourfront or sea‑view boutique hotel where you can open the curtains to La Concha Bay each morning and watch the light change across the water.
A hidden‑gem townhouse near the Old Town, putting you right in the heart of the pintxos action, but still with a calm, grown‑up feel once you step inside.
Early September is a particularly good time: the summer crowds have thinned slightly, but the water is still warm enough for a paddle and the city has a lovely, relaxed hum.
Day 1: Arrival & your first pintxos crawl
Arrive in San Sebastián, drop your bags at the hotel and resist the urge to rush straight out. Take half an hour to breathe, freshen up and properly arrive.
Once you are ready, wander down to La Concha promenade. This curving sweep of sand and elegant balustrades is one of Europe’s classic city beaches. If you are anything like me, there will be a lot of “just one more photo” moments as you walk.
For your first evening, I always recommend a guided pintxos tour rather than trying to figure it out alone. Yes, you can absolutely bar‑hop on your own later in the trip, but having a local guide on night one is such a game‑changer:
They will explain the etiquette (do you sit, do you stand, how do you order, how do you pay).
You will discover bars you might otherwise walk past.
Crucially, if you are gluten‑free or have other dietary needs, they can talk to the staff in Spanish and help you navigate what is safe.
You will glide between little bars in the Old Town, trying bites like grilled prawns, slow‑cooked beef cheeks, peppers, croquettes and more, each with a glass of local white (txakoli) or a Rioja. It is fun, informal and the perfect way to settle into Basque life.
Day 2: Old Town, viewpoints & a Michelin evening
Start the day slowly with coffee and breakfast, then head into the Parte Vieja (Old Town). This area feels very different in the daylight: you can actually see the bar counters instead of just the crowds.
Ideas for your morning:
Visit the San Telmo Museum to get a feel for Basque culture and history.
Duck into churches and little squares as you go.
Take things at your own pace – this is a holiday, not a route march.
In the afternoon, head up for a view. You have two main options:
Monte Urgull: a gentler walk up through trees and old fortifications, with views back over the city and bay.
Monte Igueldo: reached by a funicular, for classic postcard views of the curve of La Concha.
Whichever you choose, you will be rewarded with big, cinematic vistas and that smug feel of “we earned this” when you come back down.
The evening is your time for a Michelin experience. San Sebastián and its surroundings have a cluster of world‑renowned restaurants offering multi‑course tasting menus. With a little planning, they are also brilliant at looking after gluten‑free guests and other dietary needs.
Expect:
A long, lingering dinner rather than a quick bite.
Beautifully presented, seasonal dishes with lots of seafood.
Wine pairings that introduce you to local and Spanish bottles you may never have tried before.
If you are gluten‑free, do not be shy about it. When I book this kind of evening for clients, I speak to the restaurant in advance so the kitchen can prepare a full gluten‑free version of the menu rather than taking things away on the night.
Day 3: Coastal villages or more time in the city
On your third day, you have options depending on your energy levels.
Option 1: Coastal day out
Take a short trip along the coast to a fishing village such as Getaria. Here you can:
Wander the narrow streets and harbour.
Enjoy lunch at a traditional asador (grill restaurant), where fish is cooked over charcoal until the skin is blistered and smoky, then served simply with good olive oil and salt.
Try local txakoli from nearby vineyards.
This is an easy, relaxed day and works beautifully if you like the idea of seeing something beyond the city without a long transfer.
Option 2: Slow San Sebastián
Stay put and enjoy more of what you have already fallen in love with:
A lazy morning on La Concha with a good book.
A second museum or church if you fancy.
A coffee on a terrace simply watching the world go by.
In the evening, you can head back into the Old Town for a DIY pintxos route, armed with a shortlist of bars you know will look after you, especially important if you are gluten‑free. One of my favourite things to do is revisit a bar from that first guided evening and order “the one we loved” again. It feels like you belong, just a little.
Day 4: The scenic train to Bilbao
Rather than flying or driving, I really like weaving a train journey into this trip. There is something very satisfying about getting from one city to another under your own steam, watching the landscape unfold outside the window.
Aim for a late‑morning departure so there is no frantic packing at dawn. Have breakfast, check out, wander or taxi to the station and then hop on your train. The journey itself usually takes a couple of hours or so, slipping through green hills and small towns.
Arriving into Bilbao, I would always arrange a private transfer to your hotel so you do not have to grapple with directions or luggage the second you step off the train.
Days 4–6: Bilbao – art, architecture & another helping of pintxos
Bilbao is a very different kind of beautiful. Once an industrial city, it has reinvented itself as a hub of design and culture. The star is the Guggenheim Museum, all sweeping titanium curves by the river, but there is so much more going on if you give it a few days.
Where to stay
In Bilbao I tend to favour two styles, depending on your taste:
A riverside boutique hotel near the Guggenheim, with views of the museum and easy access to the riverfront promenade.
A slightly grander townhouse‑style property on one of the main boulevards, with plush rooms and a rooftop bar for evening drinks.
Both give you air‑conditioned comfort, a good breakfast and the sense that you are staying somewhere with personality rather than a faceless chain.
Day 4: First strolls & a relaxed dinner
Once you have checked in and freshened up, head out for a gentle walk along the river. From the modern footbridges to sculptures and cafés, this is a lovely way to get your bearings without too much effort after a travel day.
For dinner, I suggest something more relaxed than another huge tasting menu. Look for a modern Basque bistro within walking distance of your hotel: somewhere you can enjoy a proper sit‑down meal with good wine, grilled fish, seasonal vegetables and perhaps a cheeky dessert if you have room.
Again, if gluten is an issue, this is where having someone pre‑brief the restaurant really pays off. You should be able to enjoy plenty of dishes without constantly interrogating the menu.
Day 5: Guggenheim & Old Town pintxos
Today is your “art and old streets” day.
Book timed entry for the Guggenheim in the morning. The building alone is worth it, and depending on the exhibitions, you can spend anywhere from an hour to half a day inside.
Explore the pieces outside as well: the enormous spider sculpture and the flower‑covered puppy are both icons in their own right.
Afterwards, either grab a light lunch near the museum or stroll back into town and let your nose guide you to a café or small restaurant that looks appealing.
In the late afternoon, head into Casco Viejo, Bilbao’s Old Town. Here you will find:
Tall, narrow buildings with colourful facades.
Tiny shops and bakeries.
Churches and little squares where life hums along at its own pace.
For the evening, I once again like the idea of a guided pintxos and wine tour, this time in Bilbao’s own style. It feels different here: less seaside, more city, but no less delicious. Your guide can factor in your preferences and any dietary needs, making sure you try a good mix of classics and more inventive bites.
Day 6: Wine, wandering & a final flourish
Your final full day is intentionally flexible. You might:
Visit the Fine Arts Museum, which pairs nicely with the Guggenheim.
Take another gentle walk along the river in the opposite direction.
Simply settle into café life for a while.
If you are a wine lover, this is a great day to either:
Enjoy a tutored tasting in the city, focusing on Basque and Spanish wines you may not know well.
Or, if you have the stamina, head out with a driver to the Rioja Alavesa region for vineyard visits and a long lunch surrounded by vines.
To close the trip, I would absolutely book one more special dinner in Bilbao. It does not have to be Michelin‑starred (although it certainly can be), but it should feel like a bit of an occasion: white tablecloths, attentive service, seasonal Basque cooking done very, very well.
Raise a glass to six days well spent, safe in the knowledge that you have only scratched the surface and can come back for more.
What about gluten‑free and other dietary needs?
One question I am asked a lot is: “Is it actually possible to eat gluten‑free in Spain and still enjoy yourself?”
In the Basque Country, the answer is a very reassuring yes. A few reasons why:
Much of the food is based around fresh fish, seafood, meat and vegetables, simply prepared.
The higher‑end restaurants are used to tailoring tasting menus to specific intolerances if told in advance.
With a bit of planning, you can absolutely enjoy pintxos without spending the entire evening worrying about what you can and cannot have.
When I build this sort of trip for clients, I:
Speak to hotels, guides and restaurants ahead of time about requirements.
Choose experiences and venues that have a good track record with coeliacs and gluten‑free guests.
Provide a handy phrase card in Spanish explaining the dietary need, which is helpful in more traditional bars.
The result is that you get to focus on the fun bit: eating, drinking and exploring, with someone else doing the worrying for you behind the scenes.
Ready to plan your own Basque escape?
Six days in San Sebastián and Bilbao work beautifully as a stand‑alone foodie break, or as part of a longer Spanish itinerary. You can tweak the balance of city versus coast, dial the Michelin factor up or down, and I can build in as much or as little structure as you like.
If this has got you dreaming of pintxos, sea views and art‑filled afternoons, get in touch and let’s turn it into a plan. I will help you choose the right hotels, piece together the trains, secure those all‑important restaurant reservations and make sure everything runs smoothly from the moment you leave home.